Surface Pro 8 SSD Upgrade in 2025: 2TB Gen4 NVMe Tested and Working

Back in March 2025, I decided to give my Surface Pro 8 (i7, 256GB model) a serious speed and storage boost. After digging around forums and reading tons of conflicting info online, I took the plunge and replaced the original NVMe with a Gen4 model. Here's how it went — and what you need to know if you're planning to do the same.

Before the Upgrade: Measuring the Baseline

Before making any changes, I ran CrystalDiskMark to measure my current NVMe speeds. The results were:

Not bad, but not great for 2025 standards — especially when heavier multitasking and video work started pushing the limits.

What You Should Know First: Pre-Requisites

Before opening your Surface Pro 8, make sure you have the following:

A compatible NVMe 2230 form factor SSD

T3 Torx screwdriver (yes, it's that tiny)

A SIM tray ejector tool to open the SSD cover

Optional: Thermal paste (non-conductive, non-electrically static)

USB drive with Windows 11 24H2 installer

Surface drivers package from Microsoft (download beforehand)

Internet access or another PC for backup/installation tools

The Compatibility Confusion: Does Gen4 NVMe Even Work?

Almost every source I checked — including Microsoft's own support pages — claimed the Surface Pro 8 officially supports NVMe 2230 Gen3 only. A few tech enthusiasts online had bricked systems trying Gen4 drives, while others suggested advanced tweaks like enabling AHCI Link Power Management - HIPM/DIPM to "Active" to prevent BSOD (Blue Screen of Death) issues. For context, HIPM/DIPM refers to power-saving features that sometimes clash with high-speed drives during idle or resume states.

The problem? Gen3 2230 drives are practically extinct in 2025. Most retailers have long since phased them out. So unless you're hunting down overpriced refurbished units on eBay, Gen4 is your only viable path.

The Gamble: Enter Silicon Power UD90 Gen4 2TB

Despite the warnings, I picked up a Silicon Power UD90 2TB Gen4 NVMe. Worst case, I figured I could repurpose it in my desktop. But best case? A huge upgrade.

Physical Installation: Easier Than Expected

Here's how I swapped the drive:

Use a SIM tray tool to pop open the SSD access door.

Unscrew the existing NVMe with a T3 Torx screwdriver.

Gently remove the original heatsink/thermal spreader from the old drive.

Peel off the branding sticker from the new Silicon Power SSD (they retain heat).

Apply a tiny dot of non-conductive thermal paste.

Paste the original Surface heatsink onto the new SSD.

Slot the SSD into place and screw it back in.

Power on the device.

Result? It powered on — but unsurprisingly, no boot volume was found. That's normal after a new drive install.

Installing Windows: Your Options

Now comes the software part. You've got a few choices:

Option 1: Clone Your Old Drive

Use a tool like AOMEI Partition Assistant, Macrium Reflect, or EaseUS Todo Backup. You'll need:

A USB to NVMe enclosure or dock to connect both drives.

Clone the entire disk (MBR/GPT partition schemes matter!).

Swap the cloned drive into the Surface.

Option 2: System Image Recovery

Create a System Image Backup from the old setup.

Boot the Surface using a Windows Recovery USB.

Restore from the system image.

Option 3: Fresh Installation (My Choice)

I went with a clean slate. But make sure:

Your Surface was previously activated with your Microsoft account.

You're logged in under that same account before replacing the drive — it will auto-reactivate Windows on fresh install.

Installing Windows 11 24H2

Create a bootable USB using Microsoft's Media Creation Tool.
Plug it into the Surface.
Boot to USB by holding Volume Down + Power.
Follow on-screen instructions.
Skip product key entry — your activation is tied to your hardware + Microsoft login.

Post-Install Steps: Drivers and Optimization

Before you celebrate, don't forget:

Install Microsoft Surface drivers (you should've saved this on the same USB drive).

Update Windows fully via Settings.

Optional: Adjust Power Management settings in Control Panel → Power Options → Advanced → AHCI Link Power Management → Set HIPM/DIPM to Active or Disabled if encountering stability issues.

Final Benchmark

After installation, I reran CrystalDiskMark. Here's the performance boost:

That's more than 50% gain in both read and write speeds. Beyond numbers, boot times, app launches, and file transfers are noticeably faster in everyday use.

Summary: Was It Worth It?

Absolutely. Three months later (now June 2025), the drive is still rock-solid and performing flawlessly. No BSODs, no hiccups. If you're still on the fence about whether a Gen4 NVMe works in a Surface Pro 8 — I can confidently say: it does. Just make sure you prep carefully, back up everything, and follow the right steps.

If you're in the same boat, give it a shot. Just don't forget your T3 screwdriver.